What credit cards are available at a 600 credit score

A 600 credit score puts you in the range where secured credit cards and some subprime cards become available to you, though your options are narrower than they would be at 650 or higher. Most major issuers — Discover, Capital One, Chase — have at least one card designed for people rebuilding credit in your range. You will pay higher interest rates and annual fees than someone with excellent credit, but you can find cards that report to all three credit bureaus, which means your on-time payments actually move your score upward.

The key difference at 600 is that you are unlikely to be approved for rewards cards or cards with no annual fee. Instead, you will choose between secured cards (where you put down a cash deposit that becomes your credit limit) and unsecured subprime cards (where you borrow without a deposit, but pay higher rates and fees). Both types can work to rebuild your score if you use them strategically.

Key Takeaways

  • Secured cards require a cash deposit of $200 to $2,500 that becomes your credit limit, while subprime cards let you borrow without a deposit but charge higher interest rates.
  • Annual fees on cards for 600 credit scores typically range from $0 to $99, and interest rates usually fall between 18% and 36% depending on the card and issuer.
  • The best card for your score is one that reports your payment history to all three credit bureaus — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — because that is what moves your score up.
  • Making on-time payments and keeping your balance below 30% of your credit limit are the two fastest ways to raise your score from 600 toward 650 and beyond.

Secured cards versus unsecured subprime cards

A secured card requires you to deposit money into a savings account held by the card issuer. That deposit becomes your credit limit. If you deposit $500, your limit is $500. You then use the card like any other card, make monthly payments, and the issuer reports your activity to the credit bureaus. After 6 to 18 months of on-time payments, many issuers will convert your card to an unsecured card and return your deposit.

An unsecured subprime card does not require a deposit. You are approved for a credit limit (typically $300 to $1,000 at a 600 score) based on your income and credit history alone. The tradeoff is that interest rates are higher — often 24% to 36% — and annual fees are more common. You do not get your money back because you never put money in.

Secured cards are usually the better choice at 600 because the interest rate is often lower, and you know exactly what your limit will be. However, if you do not have $200 to $500 available to deposit, an unsecured subprime card may be your only option. Either way, the goal is the same: make every payment on time and keep your balance low so your score climbs.

Interest rates and fees at a 600 credit score

Interest rates for cards at a 600 score typically range from 18% to 36%, depending on whether the card is secured or unsecured and which issuer you choose. Secured cards tend to cluster in the 18% to 24% range. Unsecured subprime cards often land between 24% and 36%. These rates are much higher than the 12% to 20% you would see at a 700 score, so the cost of carrying a balance is real.

Annual fees vary widely. Some secured cards charge $0 to $25 per year. Others charge $49 to $99. A few subprime cards have no annual fee, but most charge $39 to $99. Before you choose a card, add the annual fee to the interest rate you would pay on a typical balance to see the true cost. A card with a $99 annual fee and 20% interest is more expensive than a card with no annual fee and 28% interest if you carry a small balance.

The good news is that interest rate does not matter much if you pay your balance in full every month. If you charge $300 and pay it off before the due date, you pay zero interest regardless of whether your rate is 18% or 36%. This is why the most important rule at a 600 score is to use the card for small purchases you can afford to pay off when ready.

How to choose a card that will actually raise your score

Not all cards report to all three credit bureaus. Before you explore, check whether the issuer reports to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. If a card only reports to one or two bureaus, your on-time payments will not reach all the scoring models that lenders use, and your score will climb more slowly. Most major issuers report to all three, but some smaller subprime cards do not.

Look for a card with no annual fee if you can find one, or the lowest annual fee available. At a 600 score, you are paying enough in interest already. Every dollar in fees is a dollar that does not go toward paying down your balance or building credit history.

Avoid cards that require you to make a deposit and then charge a high annual fee on top of it. A secured card with a $500 deposit and a $99 annual fee is costing you real money. Compare the total cost — deposit plus annual fee plus interest on any balance you carry — before you decide.

How secured cards work: the deposit and the conversion

When you open a secured card, you choose how much to deposit. Most issuers let you deposit between $200 and $2,500. Your credit limit equals your deposit. If you deposit $300, you get a $300 limit. The money sits in a savings account at the bank, earning little to no interest, but it is still yours — the issuer cannot spend it or take it unless you default on your card payments.

You use the card normally: swipe it, pay the bill, make on-time payments. The issuer reports your activity to the credit bureaus just like they would for any other card. After 6 to 18 months of perfect or near-perfect payment history, the issuer reviews your account. If your score has risen and your payment record is clean, they convert the card to an unsecured card, return your deposit, and often raise your credit limit.

The conversion is not automatic. You do not have to do anything, but the issuer also does not have to convert. If your score does not move or if you miss a payment, conversion may not happen. Some issuers are more generous about conversion than others, so read the card's terms before you explore.

Using a 600-score card to raise your credit score

Your credit score is built on five factors: payment history (35%), amounts owed (30%), length of credit history (15%), credit mix (10%), and new credit inquiries (10%). At a 600 score, you are likely weak in payment history and amounts owed. A new card helps both.

To raise your score fastest, make small purchases on your new card and pay them off in full every month. Charge $50 to $100 per month, pay it off before the due date, and repeat. This shows lenders that you can borrow and repay reliably. It also keeps your balance-to-limit ratio low — ideally below 10% — which is one of the fastest ways to improve your score.

Do not close the card once your score rises. The longer you keep an account open with a clean payment history, the more it helps your score. Even after you move to a better card, keep your 600-score card open and use it occasionally to show ongoing responsible use.

Common mistakes to avoid with a 600 credit score card

The biggest mistake is carrying a balance and paying interest. If you cannot afford to pay off your purchase before the due date, do not make the purchase. At 24% interest, a $500 balance costs you $10 per month in interest alone. Over a year, that is $120 in interest on top of the principal. You are trying to raise your score, not dig yourself deeper into debt.

Another mistake is explore for multiple cards at once. Each process triggers a hard inquiry, which temporarily lowers your score by a few points. If you explore for three cards in one week, your score drops more noticeably. Space out applications by at least three months if you need multiple cards.

Do not miss a payment, even by one day. A single late payment stays on your credit report for seven years and can drop your score by 50 to 100 points. At a 600 score, you cannot afford that hit. Set up automatic payments or calendar reminders so you never miss a due date.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will explore for a 600-score card hurt my credit?

Yes, but only temporarily. The process triggers a hard inquiry, which lowers your score by a few points for about three months. After that, the inquiry fades. The benefit of the new card — a longer payment history and lower balance-to-limit ratio — outweighs the temporary dip, so explore is usually worth it.

Can I get a rewards card with a 600 credit score?

Rarely. Most rewards cards require a score of 670 or higher. At 600, you will find cards with no rewards but lower interest rates, or cards with minimal rewards (like 1% cash back) and higher fees. Focus on raising your score first, then move to a rewards card once you hit 650 or 670.

How long does it take to raise my score from 600 with a new card?

Most people see a 20 to 50 point increase within three to six months of on-time payments and low balances. The exact timeline depends on your full credit report — if you have other late payments or high balances on other cards, those will slow your progress. But consistent on-time payments on your new card will move your score upward.

What is the difference between a hard inquiry and a soft inquiry?

A hard inquiry happens when you explore for credit and lowers your score slightly. A soft inquiry happens when a lender checks your credit to send you a preapproved offer, and it does not affect your score. Only hard inquiries count against you, so do not worry about soft inquiries.

Should I deposit the maximum amount on a secured card?

No. Deposit only what you can afford to have tied up for 6 to 18 months. A $300 deposit gives you a $300 limit, which is enough to show responsible use. A $2,500 deposit does not help your score any more than a $300 deposit — it just locks up more of your money. Start small and increase your deposit later if you need a higher limit.