What a 600 credit score means for your card options
A 600 credit score puts you in the range where mainstream credit card issuers start to say no, but secured cards and subprime cards still say yes. You will not may have access to for rewards cards or 0% introductory rates. What you will find are cards designed specifically for people rebuilding credit — they exist because the card companies know you represent a real market, not because they are doing you a favor.
The tradeoff is real: higher interest rates (often 18% to 29%), annual fees (sometimes $25 to $99), and lower credit limits (often $300 to $1,000 to start). But these cards report to all three credit bureaus, which means every on-time payment you make moves your score up. That is the actual product you are buying — not rewards or perks, but a documented path to better credit.
The best card for you depends on whether you can put down a cash deposit (which unlocks secured cards with better terms) or whether you need an unsecured card that does not require one. Both types exist at a 600 score. The difference in cost between a good choice and a bad one can be hundreds of dollars over a year.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit but typically offer lower interest rates and annual fees than unsecured subprime cards.
- Unsecured subprime cards do not require a deposit but charge higher fees and rates — use them only if you cannot deposit cash.
- Every card at this score level reports to the credit bureaus, so the real benefit is the credit score improvement, not rewards or perks.
- Your credit limit is usually equal to your deposit on secured cards, so a $500 deposit means a $500 limit.
- Paying your full statement balance on time every month is the only way these cards actually help your score — carrying a balance just costs you interest.
Secured cards: the lower-cost path if you have cash
A secured credit card requires you to deposit cash into a savings account that the card company holds. Your credit limit equals that deposit — put in $500, get a $500 limit. The card company keeps the deposit as collateral while you use the card normally. After 12 to 24 months of on-time payments, many issuers convert you to an unsecured card and return your deposit.
Secured cards at a 600 score typically charge annual fees between $0 and $35 and interest rates between 16% and 24%. That is still high, but it is meaningfully lower than unsecured subprime cards. The Discover Secured Card and the Capital One Secured Mastercard are the two most common options — both report to all three bureaus and both have no annual fee. The Citi Secured Mastercard charges a $25 annual fee but offers a lower starting interest rate.
The deposit itself is not a fee — you get it back. But you do lose the use of that money while it sits in the collateral account. If you have $500 to lock up for a year or two, a secured card is almost always the better choice than an unsecured subprime card.
Unsecured subprime cards: when you cannot deposit cash
An unsecured subprime card does not require a deposit. The card company extends credit based on your credit score alone, which is why the terms are worse — they are taking on more risk. Annual fees run $35 to $99, and interest rates typically fall between 24% and 29%.
The Milestone Mastercard and the Indigo Mastercard are two unsecured options available at a 600 score. Both charge annual fees ($19 to $99 depending on the card) and both report to the bureaus. The tradeoff is clear: you avoid locking up a deposit, but you pay more in fees and interest.
Use an unsecured card only if you genuinely cannot set aside a deposit. If you can scrape together even $300 for a secured card, the math usually favors that route. The annual fee alone on an unsecured card often exceeds the interest-rate difference between the two types.
How to compare cards at this credit score level
Forget rewards. At a 600 score, the card companies are not offering cash back or points because they expect you to carry a balance and pay interest. Any rewards program is window dressing. Focus instead on the three numbers that actually matter: annual fee, interest rate, and whether the card reports to all three bureaus.
For a secured card, add up the annual fee plus the interest you would pay on a typical balance. If you plan to carry a $500 balance for a month, a card with a $0 annual fee and 20% APR costs you about $8.33 in interest. A card with a $35 annual fee and 16% APR costs you about $41.67 total. The lower-rate card is cheaper even with the fee — but only if you actually use it.
Check the issuer's conversion policy before you sign up. Some secured cards convert automatically after 12 months of on-time payments. Others require you to request conversion, and some may not convert at all. Knowing this upfront matters because conversion is the whole point — you are building toward an unsecured card with better terms.
What happens after you open the card
Your credit score will likely drop slightly when you first open the card — this is normal and temporary. The card company runs a hard inquiry, and the new account itself counts as new credit. Both factors lower your score by a few points for a few months.
Then the improvement begins. Every on-time payment reports to the bureaus and moves your score up. After 6 to 12 months of perfect payments, you should see a meaningful increase — often 50 to 100 points, depending on your starting score and credit history. After 18 to 24 months, many people move from a 600 score into the 650 to 700 range.
The key is to use the card for small purchases you would make anyway — a tank of gas, a grocery trip — and then pay the full statement balance when the bill arrives. Carrying a balance costs you interest and does not help your score any faster. Paying in full every month costs you nothing and builds your credit at the same rate.
Red flags to avoid
Some cards marketed to people with low credit scores are traps. Avoid any card that charges an upfront fee before you even open the account — legitimate card companies never do this. Avoid cards that do not report to all three bureaus; if the card does not report to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion, it will not help your credit score. Avoid cards that require you to buy a "credit-building package" or "financial counseling" as a condition of approval.
Also watch for cards with extremely low credit limits ($100 or less) paired with high annual fees. A $100 limit with a $99 annual fee means you are paying nearly the entire limit just in fees before you use the card at all. Issuers sometimes use these to trap people who do not read the terms carefully.
Read the full terms and conditions before you explore. The interest rate, annual fee, and reporting policy should all be clearly stated. If they are buried or unclear, move to a different card.
Building credit beyond the card itself
A credit card alone will not repair a 600 score — it is one tool among several. Your score is built from five factors: payment history (35%), amounts owed (30%), length of credit history (15%), credit mix (10%), and new credit (10%). The card helps with payment history and credit mix, but it does not fix the other three.
If you have unpaid debts, collections accounts, or late payments on your record, those will drag your score down even while you are making perfect payments on the new card. Consider whether you have the money to settle old debts or set up payment plans. If you have high balances on other cards, paying those down will help your score more than opening a new card will.
The card is the visible, straightforward step. The harder work is the rest of your credit profile. But the two together — a new card with perfect payments plus paying down old balances — will move your score faster than either one alone.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will opening a credit card hurt my 600 score?
Yes, but only temporarily. The hard inquiry and new account will lower your score by a few points for a few months. After that, on-time payments will push it back up and keep climbing. The temporary dip is worth it because the long-term gain is much larger.
Can I get a credit limit increase after a few months?
Most issuers will increase your limit after 6 to 12 months of on-time payments, sometimes without you asking. Some allow you to request an increase earlier. Do not request one before 6 months have passed — it triggers another hard inquiry and does not help your case. Wait until you have a solid payment history to show.
What if I cannot pay the full balance one month?
Pay at least the minimum payment on time. Missing a payment will hurt your score far more than carrying a balance will. If you know you cannot pay in full, pay what you can and accept the interest charge. One late payment can erase months of score improvement.
Should I close the card once my credit score improves?
No. Keep the card open even after you move to better cards. Closing it removes available credit from your profile and can lower your score. Use it occasionally for a small purchase and pay it off, just to keep it active. The longer the account stays open, the more it helps your credit history length.
How long until I can get a regular credit card?
Most people move from a 600 score to the 650 to 700 range within 18 to 24 months of perfect payments on a secured card. Once you hit 650 to 670, mainstream card issuers start to say yes. At 700 and above, you have real options. The exact timeline depends on your full credit history, not just the new card.