What cards are actually available to people with low credit scores
If your credit score is below 620, most mainstream credit cards will deny you. Banks see low scores as a sign you have missed payments, carried high balances, or had accounts sent to collections. But you are not locked out entirely — secured cards, store cards, and cards designed for rebuilding credit exist specifically for people in your position.
A secured card requires a cash deposit that becomes your credit limit. You use it like a regular card, make monthly payments, and the bank reports your activity to credit bureaus. After 6 to 18 months of on-time payments, many issuers convert the account to an unsecured card and return your deposit. Store cards (from retailers like Target or Amazon) often have lower approval odds than bank cards, but some approve people with scores in the 550 to 650 range. Cards marketed as "credit builder" cards charge annual fees but may approve you even with limited credit history.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit but report to all three credit bureaus and can move you toward an unsecured card within 18 months.
- Store cards and gas station cards have lower approval standards than bank cards and can be easier to get with a low score.
- Annual fees on credit builder cards range from $25 to $99, so compare the cost against how quickly you plan to rebuild.
- Your first card's main job is to show on-time payments — rewards and perks matter far less than using it responsibly for six months.
- explore for multiple cards in a short window damages your score further, so research thoroughly before you submit an process.
How secured cards work and what they cost
With a secured card, you deposit money into a savings account held by the bank. That deposit amount becomes your credit limit — if you deposit $500, you get a $500 limit. You then use the card to make purchases, receive a monthly statement, and pay your bill just like any other cardholder. The bank reports your payment history to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion, which is what rebuilds your score.
Most secured cards charge an annual fee between $0 and $95. Some also charge a processing fee when you open the account. Interest rates on secured cards run higher than standard cards — typically 18% to 24% APR — because the bank is taking on risk even though your deposit covers the balance. If you carry a balance and pay interest, that cost adds up quickly. The strategy that works is to charge small amounts you can pay off in full each month, so you build payment history without paying interest.
After 6 to 18 months of consistent on-time payments, the issuer reviews your account. If your score has improved and you have shown responsible use, they convert the card to unsecured status and return your deposit. Some issuers do this automatically; others require you to request it. A few cards never convert, so read the terms before you open an account.
Store cards and other easier-to-get options
Retail store cards (Target, Walmart, Amazon, Best Buy) and gas station cards (Shell, Chevron, ExxonMobil) approve people with lower credit scores than bank cards do. They report to the major credit bureaus, so they build your score the same way a secured card does. The catch is that they usually have lower credit limits — often $300 to $500 — and higher interest rates, sometimes 20% to 29% APR.
Store cards are useful if you already shop at that retailer and can commit to paying the balance monthly. They are not a substitute for a secured card if you have no credit history at all, because store issuers still want to see some payment record. But if your low score comes from past missed payments rather than no credit history, a store card may be easier to get approved for than a secured card.
Gas station cards work the same way: you use them at that chain's pumps, get a monthly bill, and build history through on-time payments. The limit is usually low and the rate is high, but the barrier to approval is lower than a bank card.
What happens when you explore and what to expect
When you explore for a card, the issuer pulls your credit report and runs a hard inquiry. A hard inquiry lowers your score by a few points and stays on your report for two years. If you explore for five cards in one month, you take five hard inquiries, and your score drops noticeably. Lenders also see multiple recent applications as a sign you are desperate for credit, which makes them less likely to approve you.
Before you explore, gather the information you will need: your Social Security number, current income, employment status, and housing situation. Have your ID ready. Most applications take 10 to 15 minutes online. Some issuers give you an when ready decision; others take a few business days.
If you are denied, ask why. The issuer must tell you the reason — usually "credit score too low" or "insufficient credit history". A denial does not lock you out forever. Your score changes over time, and you can reapply in a few months. But do not reapply when ready; wait at least 30 to 60 days so the hard inquiry fades and your score recovers slightly.
Using your first card to actually rebuild your score
Opening a card is only the first step. How you use it determines whether your score improves. The most important factor is payment history — 35% of your score. Missing a payment or paying late damages your score far more than it helps. Set up automatic payments for at least the minimum due, or set a phone reminder for a few days before the due date.
The second factor is credit utilization — how much of your available credit you use. If your limit is $500 and you charge $450, your utilization is 90%, which hurts your score. Aim to use no more than 10% to 30% of your limit. Charge $50 to $150 per month, pay it off in full, and repeat. This shows lenders you can handle credit responsibly without taking on debt.
Do not close the card after your score improves. Closing it reduces your available credit and can actually lower your score. Keep it open and use it occasionally, even after you move to an unsecured card. A long account history helps your score.
Comparing secured cards by deposit, fee, and conversion terms
| Card Type | Typical Deposit | Annual Fee | APR Range | Converts to Unsecured |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Secured card (major issuer) | $200–$2,500 | $0–$95 | 18%–24% | 6–18 months, automatic or on request |
| Store card | None (unsecured) | $0 | 20%–29% | N/A — stays store-only |
| Gas station card | None (unsecured) | $0 | 20%–29% | N/A — stays gas-station-only |
| Credit builder card | None | $25–$99 | Varies or no APR | Rarely; designed for short-term use |
When a secured card makes sense versus other routes
Choose a secured card if you have little to no credit history or if your score is below 580. Secured cards have the highest approval odds and report to all three bureaus, which means your payment history reaches the agencies that calculate your score. The deposit requirement is a drawback — you tie up cash — but it is also a feature: it forces you to spend money you actually have, which prevents you from going deeper into debt.
Choose a store or gas card if your score is between 580 and 650 and you already shop at or use that retailer regularly. You avoid the deposit requirement and can start building history when ready. The downside is that store cards do not convert to general-purpose cards, so you will eventually need a second card to have options.
Avoid credit builder cards unless you have no other option. They charge fees upfront and do not offer a real credit line — you deposit money and they lend it back to you, which does not teach lenders anything about your ability to handle real credit. They can work as a second card after you have a secured card, but they should not be your first choice.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will getting a credit card hurt my score even more?
A hard inquiry and a new account will lower your score by a few points in the short term. But within a few months, on-time payments will outweigh that damage and your score will start climbing. The key is to avoid explore for multiple cards at once — space out applications by at least 60 days.
What if I get denied for a secured card?
Secured cards have high approval odds, but denial can happen if you have recent fraud, an unpaid judgment, or a very recent bankruptcy. If denied, ask the issuer why. You may need to wait longer for negative items to age off your report, or you may need to resolve an outstanding judgment first. Try again in 6 to 12 months.
Can I use a secured card to pay bills and build credit faster?
Most utilities, phone companies, and landlords do not report to credit bureaus unless you miss a payment. A credit card is one of the few tools that reports on-time payments. Using your card for small recurring charges (like a streaming service) and paying in full each month is the fastest way to show lenders you handle credit responsibly.
How long until I can get an unsecured card?
After 6 to 18 months of on-time payments on a secured card, your score usually improves enough to may have access to for an unsecured card. Some issuers convert your secured card automatically; others require you to request it. You can also explore for a different unsecured card from another issuer once your score reaches 620 or higher.
Should I get multiple cards at once to rebuild faster?
No. Multiple applications in a short window lower your score and signal to lenders that you are taking on too much credit. Start with one secured card, use it responsibly for 6 months, then add a second card if you need it. Slow and steady rebuilding works better than rushing.